Is Pal Joey's Just What Downtown Batavia Needs?

Though I am a Viking now, I grew up a Bulldog. For years I donned the red and gold, and can still pom-pon my way through loyalty. And though I root for Geneva on the field now, I still root for Batavia, the town. So, when I heard Pal Joey's was opening a location right on the river, I thought it was just what downtown Batavia needed. Pal Joey's has a dedicated following from its West Chicago location, and has created quite a buzz already. When extended family came to town last weekend, we thought it was the perfect time to give Pal Joey's a try.

31 N. River Street has housed many a dining destination. Charlie Foxes, Venice Tavern, and Fox's (no relation to Charlie) are a few of the pizza joints to have held court here. Some were better than others, but even the best have not made it here. The location seems to have some sort of a pox on it, despite it's gorgeous patio and spacious dining room. All of B-town hopes that Pal Joey's make it, and that seemed evident last weekend. Locals were milling around on the front patio, undeterred by construction on River Street. Fortunately, Pal Joey's has two bars. Many patrons enjoyed a cold one while waiting for a table. Since we had a reservation for 16, our table awaited us.

The patio is picturesque, and the evening was perfect for sitting outside. An occasional bicycler pedaled by, and a few fishermen waddled about through the river. This made for great people-watching and provided a nice distraction for the "energetic" twins at the table. Our waitress came quickly, bringing ice-cold pitchers of beer and a few chocolate milks. Orders were taken for a family-style house salad, thin crust pepperoni, veggie pan, and a pan with mushroom and sausage. One picky Pignotti requested a chicken finger/ cheese stick combo, as well. Despite hearing rumors of so-so service, I felt our large group was taken care of quite nicely.

The salad arrived in a large silver bowl, filled with crisp romaine, tomatoes, and olives, and covered with a tasty homemade vinaigrette. The pizza took longer than I'd expected, but it was pan, and I understand the dough needs its due time. Joel and I usually go for the faster-cooking thin crust pizza, and our preferred pie comes from Aurelio's in Geneva. Joel is from the South Suburbs, and so grew up on that deliciously crunchy, fantastically-sauced pizza. I've grown to be a fan, as well. I was really hoping Pal Joey's would be as good. I waited patiently, noshing on my greens and sneaking a bit of that cheese stick and chicken finger combo. I was quite pleased, and pretty hopeful, as the appetizers my son ordered were delish. These items are typical at most pizza places, but here they were not. The fingers were real, non-processed chicken, with loads of juicy white meat and a very light breading. The cheese sticks were hand-cut, generous rectangles of gooey goodness. Both apps made me think the pizza would be worth the wait. And I really wanted to love this pizza.

But... I didn't. I liked it just fine. The thin crust was greasy. Even after a serious blotting, it had a sheen like a good floor-waxing hopes to produce. But it tasted decent, and the kids devoured it. The pan pizza's crust left something to be desired, at least for my own palate. But it, too, tasted OK. There was not a particular component I could say was missing. It just didn't "wow" me. The sausage, itself, however, was note-worthy. Crumbly, rather than spherical, it had a good spicy kick. Had the crust been more than ho-hum, I'd probably be a convert.

Our evening at Pal Joey's was quite pleasant, though, and if the appetizers are a good indicator, the rest of the menu will please. The Pignottis will be back at Pal Joey's, in the near future, to enjoy that patio. But we will be ordering off the regular menu. And for now, we will remain Vikings, as far as pizza is concerned!